Oh yeah. I've got some things I'm working on, that if they work out like I'm hoping, I'll have something to show in a couple of weeks.

Oh i *know* that you do (because i'm in the same boat)


All the toys that we wish had been created are now possible lol.

At one point i was scratch building vehicles for mini figures. I can't imagine going back. I realize there is something to be said for the art of hands on / physical design. I appreciate cutting styrene, dremeling ball sockets and mixing super glue with wheat flour as much as the next nerd ( lol ) but not having to do it thanks to new resin formulas is fantastic.

I had to get my wife to check on the printer while I was at work. She told me it looked like a bunch of PacMan ghosts hanging on the build plate.

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Speaking of hands-on: I'm still working on scanning; haven't been able to get a good scan made yet but I'm still working on it. Once I get some consistent results, I'm planning to start sculpting things then scanning in for clean-up and fitting sockets and joints.

Really wish I was better at digital sculpting. Ive watched videos but I dont have enough time to practice. I really wish there was a design site like the WWE games Creation suite.

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If you're really wanting to try, you might just go with a polygon builder program, like Windows' built-in 3D Builder. It's not full-featured but it does a surprisingly decent job and is fairly easy to pick up. You won't be designing anything organic in nature with it but it's okay for machinery and such. You basically just stack up your polygons until you get the shape you want. It's how I designed my Attak Trak and the legs for Spydor.

At some point i'm going to get back into NURB modeling with Blender but you might be surprised how well you can simulate organic shapes with Polygon based design
software. Depending upon the scale you can hide a lot of the "non organic" aesthetic well enough.



I wanted one in the past but i'm not sure what i'd scan at this point.

Much like my endoscope camera it might be best to acquire one and wait for the need to arise (in the case of the camera...pest control lol).

Blender is one I just have a block when it comes to, for some reason. I've just not been able to pick it up and I'm not sure why. I cheat and use Zbrushcore for my organic models.

"PacMan ghosts"

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crimson cobra commander!

Okay, looking for some help/advice. Early this month I got myself a resin 3D printer. Not very large, but should to the job for now or what I hope. Its a Phrozen Sonic Mini. Have been just mainly taking in all the input I can on resin printing and hoping someone here can help me with my question. I'm needing help on, as I have not been able to find any information on what is the smallest item size I can print?

Backstory on my project I want to print this Soundwave alt mode I did up and would like to get it down to 18th scale or roughly the closest I can (hoping for Joe hand size over the SDCC one). It has a fare amount of detail all around except the bottom, though I don't think detail would be a problem from all the information I have on resin printing. The slicer software I'm using is Chitubox, but when I import the file nothing really shows up. I get a dark grey spot where the image should be, so its really hard to judge orientation and all the other factors for printing. They program wants to adjust the file, but when you agree still nothing changes. I even scaled it up a little to see it that helps, but alas nothing. Other files I have imported work fine, but then again they are not as small.

Now I did find an article about size, but only really was news about what others have done in micro size. Though I can see that I would be on par with that article, as Soundwave would be 5.8 x 4.2 x 2.2 mm finished size as my first attempt and 7.25 x 5 x 2.2 mm on my up scale version. Though it wouldn't break any records or anything, so I'm hopeful.

I know this will be a trail and error type of process, but hoping to minimize my face plans along my adventures. With that I thank you for any and all help in advance,
momaw nadon

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Perhaps I'll come back to this later but at the moment I'm cooking so I'll provide some short but hopefully helpful information.

1. Your printer has a minimum layer height option of .01 mm (10 microns i believe) so your printer in theory could print at that micro level. However the resin you use and your settings will determine how well the print will come out as you know lol.

2. Chitubox has a forum and I've seen that exact issue come up (and has been solved). Check there. I had a very unique issue with the software myself that was aggravating and that no one had a solution for. I went to the chitubox forum, read, posted and was provided with a solution by the rep there. In my case the solution was deleting the contents of an entire folder in the software directory and then restarting the software (instead of uninstalling and reinstalling). The software recreated the folder with the right contents and it's been smooth sailing since then.

3. I print items that are the size you referenced above or smaller daily. Specifically 8L x 3W x 2H MM or smaller . Daily. Your unit is virtually the same as my resin printer with regard to specs.

Suntzu,

Thank you for the confirmation and advice. I posted there on there forum, as wasn't able to pull up any results from searches. Though I might have not used the wording someone else with my problem used. Odd think is that now Chitubox is doing it for an model I load.

Have another question regarding the resin settings in Chitubox. Are they accurate or just a ballpark to work from. I'm starting out with Phrozen resin, as I figure their resin should be on par in there machine. Though I have got many different opinions on resins, so I figure I will just have to try them and find one I like the best. All the reviews on my machine have used their resin and haven't had any complains, is also a good starting point IMO.

I'm hoping to start printing soon, as I got my last piece of the puzzle today. Not to rush anything, just really what to start printing, as it has been 2 weeks that I unboxed my printer. Almost feels like being back in school and the teacher of your favorite class gives you an overview of what is to come with a teaser, but you can't get to the really fun stuff until the fundamentals have been laid out.

Thank you again,
momaw nadon

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I can totally relate as Blender has a major learning curve. Really great tools and features, but doesn't flow as well as others I have tried. I have dabbled in Blender when they first became and found myself going back to Sketchup. Though with my new resin printer, I just can't get what I want from Sketchup anymore, so been forcing myself to just start small and try something everyday. I discard more than I keep, but practice makes perfect. Some days I do okay and others I want to pickup my computer and throw it as far as I can .

momaw nadon

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Suntzu gave pretty good answers that cover what you asked. But to give you some confirmation that you can print that level with detail on your printer, this is something done on an (somewhat tweaked) FDM printer, not a resin printer:


The arm and leg pieces are smaller than what you're wanting to print, with working 1mm ball joints. On a resin printer, it would be much cleaner and the detail would show through even better. The resolution on your printer should give you some satisfactory results, and your Soundwave should look great. If it's a model of your own design or that you've modified, just remember that details that look exaggerated in the design software will often look 'right' on the actual print.

I might try Blender again but am happy with the other stuff I'm using right now so it's low on the list. I look forward to seeing some of your results, though!